Instructions: I have long enjoyed stir-fried tofu creations such as ma-po tofu, a classic dish from Sichuan. But I found making them difficult. Tofu is as delicate as cream cheese and no easier to saute. Unless you pour a half inch or so of oil in the skillet or wok, the tofu sticks and falls apart.

Even the elaborate preparations devised to toughen up tofu - pressing, drying, freezing - dont keep it from sticking. Since the soft and silken kinds are best, why would you want to make it tough? To me, the ethereal nature of soft tofu is half the joy of eating it.

Since many stir-fried tofu dishes are little more than tofu mixed with a bit of meat and some seasonings, it occurred to me that their preparation did not originate concurrently with the invention of non-stick pans. After further thought, I figured out that these dishes are not correctly described as stir-fries. They are really simmered dishes, with the tofu introduced at the last minute, after just enough liquid has been added to keep the dish moist and the tofu from sticking.

My ruminations paid off. I now find this dish easy and fast, regardless of the type of skillet or tofu I use. I quickly stir-fry garlic, ginger and red pepper flakes in oil, add a little meat (not too little, but not so much that it becomes a meat dish), scallions, liquid, tofu and, finally, soy sauce. The liquid can be rice-flavored stock, but even if it is water, the results will be delicious. If youre planning to serve the dish with rice, the rice should be the first thing you start cooking.

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