Instructions: Cook the macaroni in 2 quarts boiling water. Melt the butter in a saucepan. After the butter is completely melted, turn off the heat and whisk in the flour. Heat the milk and whisk it into the butter/flour mixture. Turn the heat back on to medium and continue to stir until the mixture just begins to thicken. Add the cheese and continue stirring until all the cheese is melted. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Add the sauce to the cooked and strained macaroni. For a creamier version, serve immediately. For a more traditional version, bake in an oven-proof casserole with additional grated cheddar on top for 20 minutes at 350 degrees.

This recipe yields 8 to 10 servings.

Comments: It is preferable to use three different extra-sharp cheddar cheeses. Suggested cheeses are extra-sharps from the Cabot Creamery (available at most Trader Joes stores), Crowley Cheese (available at Whole Foods Markets) and an extra-sharp from the Grafton Village Cheese Company or Tuxford & Tebbutt cheddar from England, Old Quebec cheddar from Canada, Vintage Irish cheddar from Ireland and a Bravo Farms Special Reserve from Visalia, Calif.

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