Instructions: * Note: The membrane on the underside should definitely be removed. Not only is it a flavor barrier, keeping seasonings from the meat, but it also makes eating ribs, and looking at them, less pleasant, to put it daintily. To get rid of it, lay the rack of ribs meat-side down on a cutting board and slide a small sharp knife under the membrane over the rib at the thickest end. Slip your finger under and carefully slide the film loose, working your way from rib to rib. Any excess fat also should be carefully pared off to minimize the grease.

Toast the ancho and guajillo chiles in a large, dry skillet until softened and aromatic. Set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, oregano, cumin and about 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until soft, about 10 minutes. Crumble the toasted chiles into the pan and saute briefly. Add 2 cups of the stock and simmer until the chiles are soft, about 10 minutes.

Transfer the mixture to a blender, add the chipotles and puree until smooth. Press through a sieve into a deep, wide saucepan. Add the remaining stock and mix well, then bring to a simmer.

Rub the ribs on all sides with salt. Lay the ribs, meat-side down, into the sauce. (You may need to work in batches.) Cover the pan and cook 15 minutes, then turn the ribs over, cover again and cook 15 minutes longer. Add more stock or water, if necessary. Repeat until the ribs are tender, about 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes. Place the ribs on a platter. Strain the sauce to remove the fat and keep it warm.

Heat the grill. Lay the ribs on and cook, turning, until crisp and charred, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with sauce on the side.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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