Instructions: Open can of tuna. If it came packed in oil, dump it into a sieve or colander and run water over it to wash away the excess oil, then drain; if its packed in water, just drain it.

If youre using fresh celery, wash it well - a little brush can help you get all the dirt out of its ribs. With a small knife, cut off about four inches of four of the leafy ends, and set aside. Chop the rest (or at least a couple of big spoonfuls of it) into small pieces, and put into a medium-size bowl.

Chop about a tablespoon of onion, too, and add it to the bowl. Shake some salt and pepper in on top of it (freshly ground pepper adds a nice touch, but use whatever you have handy). Pour a small "blob" of lemon juice (about a spoonful) in the bowl and stir the veggies and seasonings around in it a little; then add a couple tablespoons of mayo, and mix everything together.

Put the mixing bowl in the fridge while you get out your four rolls. Set them on a cutting board and make a hole in the top of each one by cutting down and toward the center, then removing the hunk of bread youve cut out.

(You wont be serving these "bread holes" today; but theyre great for feeding ducks at the closest duck pond; or you can put them into a plastic bag and grind them up later for bread crumbs - maybe for meat balls this weekend.)

After you have the holes (or "holds"!) cut in your bread boats, youre ready to spoon some of your tuna mixture in each. Then its time to give your boat a "mast," a "sail," and "outriggers": Take the reserved celery sticks and stand them up in the "forward" part of the openings. Then fold each piece of cheese diagonally, and tuck one in the hollow side of each piece of celery. Place each tuna boat on a plate and arrange carrot sticks at right angles to the boats, as though they were outriggers keeping it level.

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