Instructions: Six ramekins 74mm diameter 40mm deep lightly buttered 28 x 20 x 5 cm baking tin
35 x 25.5 cm baking tray.

Preheat the oven to gas mark 4/350F/180C.

Heat the milk onion bay leaf; nutmeg and peppercorns in a mediumsized saucepan till it reaches simmering point then strain the milk into a jug discarding the rest now: Rinse out the saucepan then melt the butter in it.

Add the flour and stir to a smooth glossy paste and cook this for 3 minutes still stirring until it turns a pale straw colour. Gradually add the strained milk whisking all the time until the sauce is thick and cleanly leaves the sides of the pan. Season lightly and cook the sauce on the gentlest heat possible for 2 minutes stirring now and then.

Remove the pan from the heat and let it cool slightly then beat in the egg yolks one at a time.

Crumble 110g of the cheese into the mixture and stir until most of it has melted dont worry if some cheese is still visible.

Put a kettle on to boil and in a spankingclean large bowl whisk the egg whites to the softpeak stage then fold a spoonful of egg white into the cheese sauce to loosen it. Now fold the sauce into the egg white using a large metal spoon and a cutting and folding motion.

Divide the mixture equally between the ramekins.

Put them in the baking tin place it on the centre shelf of the oven then pour about 10mm of boiling water into the tin.

Bake the souffle for 20 minutes then transfer them to a cooling rack (using a fish slice) so they dont continue cooking.

Dont worry if they sink a little as they cool because they will rise up again in the second cooking.

When they are almost cold run a small palette knife around the edge of each ramekin and carefully turn the souffles out on to the palm of your hand then place them the right way up on a lightly greased shallow baking tray.

They can now be stored in the fridge for up to 24 hours lightly covered with clingfilm.

When you are ready to reheat the souffles preheat the oven to gas mark 4/350F/180C and remove the souffle from the fridge so they can return to room temperature. Dice the remaining roquefort into 5mm pieces and sprinkle it on top of the soufflcs then place them in the oven on the shelf above centre for 30 minutes.

2 or 3 minutes before serving spoon a tablespoon of cream over each souffle and return them to the oven while you seat your guests.

Serve the souffles immediately on warm plates and garnish each with a sprig of watercress.

The obvious advantage of twicebaked souffles is that they can be done and dusted the day before you need them. Then they rise up again like a dream with a brilliantly light texture and flavour.

Serves 6

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