Instructions: Next time you get overwrought thinking of squid or tofu, sit down to a nice steaming glass of the following and compose yerself...

ARISTOCRATIC ICED TEA:
It is the color of Chartreuse (which is also tinted with saffron). At least 4 hours prior to serving, pour boiling water over threads.

Just before serving, add juice, sugar and ice cubes. Threads may be left in or strained out.

Makes 40 servings.

BLACK SPICED TEA:
Chef Ashok Rajput of the Nataraja Restaurant (Palo Alto, Ca.) made this tea for me while demonstrating how to make Indian-style ice cream with cardamom, pistachios, and saffron. I thought I had found heaven between sipping the delicate, slightly sweet, aromatic tea and tasting the custard of the freshly made kulfi.

This tea is called Qahwa in Kashmir where Indias 4,000 acres of saffron fields are. It is also served in the Arab nations and Iran.

I have seen recipes with many other ingredients than the ones listed below, so experiment also with green tea, rose water, fresh ginger, almonds honey, cinnamon and milk.

Bring first four ingredients to a boil, then simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Bring to a second boil, add tea and steep to desired strength.

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