Instructions: Tofu (aka bean curd) is made by pulverizing soybeans, boiling the mash, filtering it and then adding calcium or sea salt to coagulate the curds. The process is similar to making cottage cheese.

Tofu comes in several forms. Usually its packaged in 12- or 16-ounce blocks, priced from $2 to $3.50 per package. Most forms are packaged in water. Check the expiration date on the package, and try to use the tofu by that date. Otherwise, freeze the unopened package in an air-tight container for use later.

TYPES OF TOFU: Tofu textures vary, ranging from the soft mushy one that repels the wary, to the firm and extra-firm kind used in stir-fry cooking. Most large supermarkets carry packaged tofu and/or pasteurized shelf-stable tofu in the produce section. Natural foods stores tend to have greater variety.

Tofu comes in firm, extra-firm and soft. Recipes will specify which is preferred for a particular dish. Soft tofu is used mainly for soups and some stir-fry dishes. Depending on the texture, it can be cut into cubes of varying size for grilling, or crumbled into chili, casseroles and eggless "egg" salad.

Silken tofu, which is pasteurized, doesnt have to be refrigerated. It does not stir-fry well, but can be pureed for dips, sauces, spreads, salad dressings, egg replacement in cakes and some breads. Do not freeze it. To achieve a smooth consistency, whip the tofu in a small food processor or blender until it reaches the consistency of mayonnaise. You can whip it with a hand blender - not a hand-held electric mixer - but it will take awhile. Be patient.

HOW TO USE: To drain tofu, simply pour off the water.

To press tofu - in order to remove excess water, which makes it easier for tofu to absorb marinades - loosely wrap the tofu block in several layers of a clean kitchen towel, place it on a plate and put a 1-pound bag of beans on top. Leave it for 15 minutes. It should lose several tablespoons of water. Rewrap the tofu in a dry towel, put the bag back and let it sit for another 15 minutes. This will prime the tofu block to absorb marinades.

To freeze tofu, place the unopened container in the freezer for at least 36 hours. It can remain in the freezer for up to three months. It can be thawed in a microwave - poke several holes in the top, place the tub on a plate and defrost on high (100 percent power) for 5 to 7 minutes. It also can be defrosted at room temperature, which should take about three hours. Then drain and press. It will be darker than regular tofu, but it will also have a chewy texture. Freezing tofu increases its ability to absorb flavors.

Baked tofu comes marinated with ethnic flavors and can be used on sandwiches or crumbled in tacos, enchiladas, on pizza, in lasagna. It can also be sliced and eaten on sandwiches.

To bake tofu, slice an extra-firm block of tofu into 1/2-inch thick slices, and simmer for 15 minutes in a marinade. Remove the tofu to a baking dish that has been sprinkled with sesame oil. Flip the tofu so that each side gets a coating, then bake on both sides in a 450-degree oven until tofu is browned, 7 to 10 minutes.

To fry tofu, slice a firm block, dust it with flour (or cornstarch) and carefully place in hot peanut or vegetable oil. Then fry the slices on both sides until browned. Drain on paper towels and season with soy sauce and chopped green onion.

To store tofu: Once opened, a package of tofu will keep up to five days if it is refrigerated, kept under water and tightly covered. Change the water daily. If it has an odor, throw it out.

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