Instructions: This is a wonderfully delicate, buttery cake that is worth making even during the height of the summer fruit season, but will be especially welcome during the winter months. The Los Angeles Times test kitchen staff used a mixture of dried apricots, cherries and plums.

Fruit and topping: Place the fruit in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer, partially covered, until the fruit is plump and soft, about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside. Melt the butter in a 10 inch cast-iron skillet, then whisk in the sugar. When it has melted, turn off the heat and allow the syrup to settle evenly over the bottom. Arrange the fruits attractively over the top, the cut sides facing up. If some pieces are very large, you might cut them into halves or quarters so the cake will be easy to slice.

Cake: Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Beat the butter with the sugar until light and fluffy, then add the vanilla, almond extract and eggs, one at a time, and beat until thoroughly smooth. Scrape down the bowl between additions, then add the buttermilk. In another bowl, sift or whisk the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt together so they are combined evenly. With the mixer on low, add to the batter in 3 or 4 separate additions. Spoon the batter over the fruit, then bake in the center of the oven until the cake is golden and starting to pull away from the sides, about 25 to 35 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes, then place a serving plate over the skillet, grasp both together and flip them over.

Remove the skillet. Serve while still a bit warm or when fully cooled.

Note: Use real butter or stick margarine. Do not substitute reduced-fat spreads; their higher water content often yields less-satisfactory results

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