Instructions: 1 Peel and finely chop the shallots. Cut off the sandy part of the mushroom stalks, wash and cut the mushrooms into thin slices. Split the kidneys in two, remove the nerves and the fat. Cut into cubes.

2 Heat a frying pan without any oil or fat, put in the kidneys and cook for 1 or 2 minutes until they have disgorged their liquid and are dry, then add a little oil, the shallots and mushrooms. Fry until golden, stirring gently with a wooden spoon.

3 Season and pour in the wine. Cook over a low heat for 3 minutes.

4 Wash and chop the parsley. Arrange the kidneys on a serving dish and sprinkle with parsley. Serve hot.

In Rome in 92 A.D., the emperor Domitian ordered the seizure of half of the Gallic vineyards, ostensibly to give the land over to wheat-growing, but actually to protect Roman wine-producers from competition.

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