Instructions: Combine the rice vinegar with the sliced chiles and let stand so the chiles become pickled.

Meanwhile, place the pork on a cutting board. Top with the garlic and the fish sauce. With a Chinese cleaver or other sharp, heavy knife, chop the meat and garlic together until finely minced, almost pasty.

Place the rice in a large saucepan, add 3 cups of water and cook over low heat until creamy, about 30 to 35 minutes. The rice will soften and break down, like a puree. Keep adding water as needed so that it stays fluid like a soup. Stir in 1 teaspoon of salt. Keep warm over low heat.

Shape the pork mixture into small patties 2 to 3 inches wide. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Fry the patties in batches until browned and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes a side.

Ladle the rice soup into 4 large soup bowls. Place 3 or 4 pork patties in each bowl. Garnish with cilantro and pepper to taste.

Serve with fish sauce and vinegar-chile mixture, letting diners season their own soup.

Note: Although this rice soup is popular for breakfast, it makes a good one-dish meal any time.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Broken jasmine rice, available in some Asian markets, softens and breaks down into a creamy puree ideal for porridge. The label may say "broken rice" or specify jasmine broken rice and may also include the Vietnamese name for the broken grains, cao thom.

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