Instructions: Wines, like many condiments, augment the flavors of the foods they grace. Unlike spirits, wines are not aggressive; they enhance, they complement, they support the natural savor of the principal ingre- dients.

What wines to use? First of all, a caveat: avoid those wines marked

"cooking wines" - available in whites, reds and sherries and doctored with chemicals to make them unpalatable as drinking wines, a carry over from prohibition days or to meet the laws that prohibit the sale of vinous products in regular markets. If a wine is not normally potable, it does not belong in food. Of course, there is not need to choose expensive, show-off wines. The standard dry whites and reds - called vins ordinaires in France - are normally used, unless, of course, you have the remains of an expensive chateau or estate bottled wine for which you have no further use.

Often wine is reduced first and then added to a recipe. This step allows a concentration of wine flavor, removing any rough taste from a wine and permits the meat in a dish to cook until tender without the prolonged cooking required to reduce the accompanying sauce. In a saucepan over high heat it takes 1 cup of wine about 10 minutes to reduce to 1/4 cup.

When cooking with wine, your cooking utensils should be stainless steel, glass or enamelware. The acid in the wine leaches salts from an aluminum pan and also causes a bitter taste in the food. and for the concerned, when wine is cooked all of the alcohol evaporates.

Here are some innovative tips when cooking with wine.

* Use wine in place of part of the liquid in preparing dry sauce mixes,

* After sauteing meat, pour a few tablespoons of wine into the same pan and combine it with any browned particles left from the meat Pour this combination over the meat.

* Use wine, to taste, as part of the liquid in cakes, batters, cookie dough, puddings or pie fillings.

* Use as part of the liquid in preparing a favorite soup, frozen soup, or soup from a mix. Add a spoonful or two of wine to a serving of soup.

* Stir a little wine to taste into homemade gravy.

* Use wine as part of the measured liquid when preparing gelatin desserts or salads.

* Add when reheating leftover meat, fish or poultry dishes.

* Choose complementary wines to douse fresh, frozen or canned fruits.

* Frozen vegetables with cream sauce are nicely accented by the addition of a tablespoon or two of white wine.

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