Instructions: In a bowl, combine bread crumbs, pepper, lemon peel, vodka, lemon juice, chopped green onion, and chopped parsley.

Rinse sole and lay pieces flat (if unskinned, skin up). Cover fillets equally with bread mixture and roll to enclose. Set sole, seam down, in a buttered, shallow 2 1/2- to 3-quart casserole. Cover tightly with foil.

Bake in a 425 degree regular or convection oven until fish is opaque but moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), 12 to 16 minutes.

Wine Sauce: In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, frequently stir butter or margarine and minced shallots until golden, about 3 minutes. Add wine and vodka; when simmering, ignite (not beneath an exhaust fan or flammable items) and shake pan until flame dies. Pour over fish and garnish with chopped parsley.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Like the little black dress that accessorizes up or down for the occasion, sole is the fish that adjusts for style. Delicately flavored and unassertive, it provides an elegant foundation for simple to complex seasonings.

All sole are members of the flounder family. Youll find the largest variety at a fish market. Choices may include petrale, English, sand, and Rex sole, starry flounder, and sand dabs (usually whole). Boned sole fillets vary considerably in size - from 2 to 8 ounces, depending upon the variety. Some fillets are skinned, others arent, as the skin is very thin and tender. To make this dish, choose thin fillets; thicker pieces will take a bit longer to cook.

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