Instructions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium heat, add the garlic and cook, stirring, until lightly browned. Add the squid and saute for 1 minute, then put in the preheated oven until evenly opaque but still tender, 2 to 4 minutes.

Transfer the skillet to the stovetop, season the squid with salt and pepper, add the white wine and stir to deglaze the pan. Immediately remove the squid with a slotted spoon.

Add the lemon juice to the pan, bring to a boil and boil to reduce by half, about 3 minutes. Return the squid to the pan with the tomato, parsley and arugula and toss just to coat; the arugula should maintain its shape and not be fully cooked.

Spoon the warm salad onto individual plates and drizzle with the remaining olive oil.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: End-of-the-season tomatoes are slightly more acid than earlier tomatoes, but any ripe tomato can be used. The Meyer lemon is larger than a regular lemon, with juice that is smoother and less sharply acidic. Again, regular lemons can be used.

Chef Chiarello uses a technique of first cooking the squid for 1 minute on top of the stove, then transferring the pan to a hot oven. This cooks the squid gently and helps preserve its tender texture. You can do all of the cooking on top of the stove, if you prefer, but take care not to overcook the squid, which leaves it quite tough.

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