Instructions: To make the Basic White Asparagus: Bring the water to a simmer in a large pot with the salt, lemon juice, butter and sugar. Meanwhile, trim about 1/2 inch from the ends of the asparagus. Lay the spears on a work surface and peel them with a sharp vegetable peeler, starting about 1 1/2 inches from the top and running evenly down the length of each spear. (Spears are brittle and can snap when peeled in midair.)

Gather the spears into 2 to 4 bundles and tie them loosely with kitchen string, then lower them into the simmering water. Cook, increasing the heat to maintain a simmer, if necessary, until the asparagus is tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, anywhere between 8 and 30 minutes, depending on the thickness of the spears. Lift the bundles from the water with kitchen tongs and drain them on paper towels.

Boil the wine and shallot in a medium-heavy pan over medium-high heat until reduced by three-fourths, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the cream and cook until the liquid is reduced again by half, about 5 to 7 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Cut the butter into pieces, then whisk it into the pan, a few pieces at a time, until smooth. Whisk in salt and pepper to taste along with the hot sauce and lemon juice. Cover and keep warm for up to 15 minutes. Chop half of the chervil and set it aside.

Cut the asparagus into 1 1/2-inch lengths and add to the warm beurre blanc. Cook for 1 minute, stirring gently until the asparagus is well-coated. Add the tomatoes and chopped chervil and stir gently, then spoon into a warm serving dish. Garnish with the remaining chervil. Serve warm.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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