Instructions: * Note: Use a fish such as white-fleshed fish like sea bass, red snapper, porgy (daurade) or striped bass.

Make the Classic Tapenade: If the anchovies are salt-packed, soak them for about 5 minutes in water and drain.

Turn on a food processor and drop in the garlic. When it is chopped, turn off the machine and scrape down the sides.

Add the olives, capers, anchovies, thyme, rosemary and mustard. Blend together until fairly smooth.

Add the lemon juice, olive oil, a generous grinding of pepper and the Cognac and continue to blend until you have a smooth paste.

Scrape the tapenade into a serving bowl and garnish with the herbs. Refrigerate 2 hours until ready to serve.

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Oil a baking dish large enough to accommodate the fish.

Rinse the fish with cold water and pat dry. Sprinkle it on both sides with salt and pepper, then rub with the olive oil. Measure the fish at the thickest point to determine how long you will bake it.

Place a heaped tablespoon of tapenade and the rosemary sprigs in the stomach cavity of the fish. Place the fish in the baking dish. Pour the lemon juice over the fish, add the wine to the baking dish and cover tightly with foil that has been lightly oiled on the underside.

Bake the fish for 5 minutes per 1/2 inch of thickness. Remove it from the oven, and test for doneness. It is done if it is opaque and pulls apart easily with a fork at the thickest point.

Serve the fish with the remaining tapenade on the side.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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