Instructions: Trim any rind or bone from the bacon, then cut across the slices to make strips, called in French lardons. Heat the oil with the lardons in a frying pan over medium heat and fry until the fat is rendered and the bacon is beginning to brown.

Trim the stem of the chicory or escarole. Pull off most of the green outside leaves and discard them as they are very tough. Pull apart the remaining white and pale green leaves. If they are dirty immerse them in a sink full of cold water and shake them with your hands to loosen grit. Lift them out with your hands, so grit is left behind. Dry the leaves in a salad spinner or roll them in a dry dish towel. Transfer them to a salad bowl and have two salad spoons ready.

Continue cooking the bacon until brown, even crispy if you like. If you have more than about 3 tablespoons of fat, discard some. Pour the hot fat and bacon over the salad greens and toss well so the leaves wilt and are evenly coated.

Put the pan back on the heat, add the vinegar, and cook, stirring to dissolve the sticky juices on the bottom of the pan, until reduced by about half. Take the pan from the heat, add the cognac, and flame it by lighting with a match, again standing well back. If the cognac does not light at once, put it back over the heat.

Pour this over the greens and toss again. Add freshly-ground black pepper, taste and adjust the seasoning.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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