Instructions: In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sour cream, milk, and melted butter.

In a large bowl, sift together the pastry and all-purpose flours, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Make a well in the center, pour the egg-yolk mixture into the well, and whisk just enough to incorporate into the dry ingredients.

In a clean bowl, with a clean whisk, beat the egg whites until shiny and firm, but not dry. Stir a little into the batter, then fold in the remaining whites.

Heat the griddle and butter lightly. Over medium heat, using a 1/4-cup measure, pour the batter onto the griddle. When each pancake is golden brown on one side, and small bubbles appear on the surface, turn with a wide spatula and brown the other side. As the pancakes are cooked, transfer to a tray lined with a clean towel and keep warm in a low oven.

Arrange 3 or 4 pancakes on a warm plate. Serve with warmed pure maple syrup or fruit syrup. Garnish with a few slices of seasonal fruit and serve immediately.

To make fruit syrup, combine 1 part fruit (blueberries, sliced strawberries, or any other berry, sliced peaches, or plums) with 3 parts maple syrup and a little grated orange rind. The fruit can be pureed, if desired. Serve warm.

This recipe yields twelve 3 1/2-inch pancakes.

Comments: At 4:00 A.M. every morning, the kitchen at Postrio in San Francisco sets up for breakfast that begins at 7:00 A.M. The batter is the first thing they make and creates pancakes that are light and fluffy.

Yield: 12 pancakes

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