Instructions: Bring a large pot three-fourths full of water to a boil and salt it lightly. Gently pull the strands of noodles apart, then drop them into the boiling water, stirring to separate the strands. Bring to a second boil and cook for 1 minute longer. Pour the noodles into a colander and rinse thoroughly with cold running water. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl. Toss with the oil to keep the strands from sticking together.

To prepare the wontons, rinse the shrimp with cold water. Drain. Place in a bowl, add 1 teaspoon of the salt and toss well; set aside for 10 minutes. Rinse the shrimp in cold water again; drain thoroughly, pat dry and chop coarsely.

In a bowl, mix together the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt, the shrimp, pork, wine or sherry, soy sauce, green onion, bamboo shoots, sugar, white pepper, sesame oil and cornstarch.

To wrap the dumplings, work with 1 wrapper at a time, keeping unused wrappers covered with a kitchen towel. Place 1 heaping teaspoon of filling in the center of a wrapper. Moisten the wrapper edges with water and fold in half to form a triangle, enclosing the filling. Bring the two long ends up and over to meet and slightly overlap over the top of the filling. Moisten where the edges overlap with egg white and press together to seal. Set on a baking sheet and cover with another kitchen towel. Continue to form dumplings until all the filling has been used. Set aside 3 dozen dumplings for this dish; wrap the remainder and any unused wrappers in plastic wrap and freeze for up to 2 months.

To assemble the soup, in a saucepan, heat the chicken stock and season with the sugar, soy sauce and sesame oil. At the same time, bring a large pot three-fourths full of water to a boil, salt lightly and add the bok choy. Boil for 1 minute; then, using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer to a bowl and set aside. When the stock is hot, drop in the noodles for a few seconds to reheat. Using the spoon or tongs, scoop out the noodles and divide them among 6 warmed deep soup bowls; keep warm.

Drop 3 dozen wonton dumplings into the boiling water. Cook until they float to the top, about 3 minutes. Using the spoon, scoop out the dumplings and place approximately 6 dumplings in each bowl. Top with the bok choy and ladle over the hot stock. Garnish with the green onion and serve hot.

This recipe yields 6 servings.

Comments: Although this ubiquitous Chinese soup is served in every conceivable venue from food stalls to fancy restaurants, the best versions are generally found in the simplest settings.

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