Instructions: Cooking in America," (Knopf, 1994, $30 (and worth it)) so I feel honor-bound to plug this terrific cookbook, which Im sure contains something for everybody - even a chile-head, as I found out.

Blend in food processor.

Makes + or - about a pint. Stores well in refrigerator.

Now, some variations. Use habs, seeds and all. Serranos taste wonderful but habs taste better and pack more kick. I use seeds and all, just cut off the stems.

Add some olive oil while blending. Your mileage may vary.

For "dried hot red pepper flakes" I use my other killer app, habs and chipotles, 1 to 1, ground fine.

Does 5 whole heads of garlic seem a bit much? Resist the temptation to scrimp. Inconceivable that a C-H would be a garlic wimp.

You cant beat this combination of flavors. Add it to anything you can think of. Let your imagination run wild. I use it a lot for salad dressing bases. For me, a dab of zhug, then olive oil and lemon juice, is all a salad needs.

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